Відео

This design was to utilize no direct lifting to help people with bad backs/joints. But yes, it can be done like that.

I've used both and either will work.

1 1/2" pipe works on yakima round bars, I'm going to try 2" for my aero bars today. Also, can you show a shot of the side of the yak going up the car with the straps and loop rope and tow rope attached? Is the loop rope just with both ends with another loop then clicked to the carabiner off the tow rope? And noticed the straps are very close to the center of the boat, not ends. And lastly, guess you slide the boat over the straps then tighten them or have the boat leaning against the rail then pull the straps through? Thanks!!

Same haha and now I got this video as a suggestion 😂

Insert steel pipe inside the PVC

@@STho205 hm-m... makes sense. or just use steel pipe only...

Certainly. It would still get the boat up on the car without the side rails. Although, you're more likely to scratch the paint on the car when it goes over the top as the boat tends to rock at that position without the rail. Also, the other rail enables bracing of the winch system. But it's totally possible to not use a winch and get the boat on the car.

Yes that seems like the best plan, and was what I had originally. But I found it was quicker to just crank it a few times instead of charging batteries, getting the drill out, placing it on the bolt and running the drill, and placing it back in the car.

The winch is nice. I just use block and tackle and pull it from the boat side (by hand) so I make sure it is sliding up evenly. Then I use the tailing end of the rope as the tie down over both rack rails.

Yes, although I'm pretty sure its because the frame rate changed in the camera rapidly.

I literally just lashed it to the bars with the rest of the tow rope. This way I didn't have to add any other hardware or mount. Holds perfectly. www.starpathimages.com/SPI-Archives-ClientGalleries/SPI-PhotoArchives/Kayak-Loader

The actual “heat” being reflected is in the IR range, and you should be looking for materials that best reflect IR, but the rule of thumb is, if it reflects visible light it will be an efficient reflector of IR. The fact that you'd see a white surface indicates that only some of the light or heat or any radiation, is sent back. If the white is really perfectly white, there is no difference in the reflected amount of heat, but the reflection direction is scattered. Go with the shiny silver.

Yeah man. Test out the rails first but it holds my 70lbs easily. You can always go up the next size PVC if needed.

Thanks so much! No barlows but I just used the video mode on the camera which gives a zoomed in perspective. Here is the gear I used... Telescope: Coronado PST (single stack) Imaging Camera: ZWO ASI174MM Filter: SVBony UV/IR Cut filter Tracking Mount: Sky-Watcher AZ-GTi

@@AlanHowellphotovideo Thank you for the reply! I'm expecting my first H-Alpha telescope in two days.. Really looking forward to using it.

Unfortunately, it would damage the solar panel.

@@AlanHowellphotovideo 0k ty

Thank you so much! Not long till the 2024 total eclipse now!

No, a solar panel would definitely be more efficient in creating electricity whereas the dish helps you save electricity.

lol I couldn't help myself.

i thought you were goofin

@@AlanHowellphotovideo It put a smile on my face and for that I'm thankful! And great detail you've captured from down here on the ground like, I didn't honestly expect much from when I clicked it. Be great if you could get the left hand side around the equator region for incoming stuff, but I appreciate you can't sit there all day and all week! Have a great day :D

The extra magnification comes from using a specific camera, like the ASI120MM or the ASI178MM for example. It's all about sensor chip size to pixel ratio to get the best images possible. I recommend checking out the 'Field of View Calculator' at astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/. You can enter in your camera model and scope and see exactly how it would look on the Sun, Moon, or even deep space objects. Very helpful in framing up your target as well if you need to rotate the camera. I do not recommend using ND filters, even the high strength ones as they usually only block the visible light spectrum and not the infrared. So, these could potentially damage your eyes or camera. Sometimes the manufacturers of the ND filters do not specify if they block IR light so its a risky gamble. I recommend using a Baader type solar film (cheapest option for white light viewing), or even a Hydrogen-alpha filter for the safest and most detailed views. My scope has an H-alpha filter built in but you can buy them to fit about any scope. Check out DayStar Quark 'Chromosphere' or Prominence' models online, or a dedicated solar telescope from Lunt Solar Systems. They can be quite pricey though. You can even add an IR/UV cut filter to help as well with the solar film type filters.

@@AlanHowellphotovideo I got a Hoya ProND-100000 Neutral Density 5.0 Solar Filter, rated at 16.6 stops. It's advertised for solar eclipse photography. Can I put that on a 600mm or 800mm lens to photography the sun directly safely?

@@thedarkslide Yes, but only for photography. I wouldn't recommend running video through an ND filter or it could possibly damage the sensor. Keep your shutter speed above 1/250th if possible to reduce the length of time the sensor is exposed to the sunlight. And most importantly...DO NOT use the viewfinder for solar photos. Only use the LCD screen as the ND filter likely does not block infrared light. Our retinas do not have pain receptors so your eyes would be damaged before you realized it if you look at the Sun through the viewfinder. Better yet, use the HDMI out to a small monitor and you and your friends can safely view it together :-)

@@AlanHowellphotovideo Thanks for the information. I assume video equals live view cameras which always do a sensor readout even when not exposing/capturing an image, e.g. all mirrorless cameras today or DSLRs in live view.

@@thedarkslide Yes that's a good point. Any mode that exposes the sensor for longer than your shutter speed at 1/250th is a potential risk. If you do want to shoot video frames, switch from the Nd filter to a solar film white light filter (or h-alpha).

No, not cool. Pretty darn hot.

did u succeed to use a similar thing with hobie tandem island? did u go with PVC?

@@giorgio.plazzotta actually I ended up lowering the back of my J-racks so the yak sits flatter. I got a $2 yoga mat and I put it on the back of the suburban, lift the nose of th yak up, and simply push it up. I think the only change is going to be a pvc track to ensure stability side to side. 15 or so times loading and no issues.